Kauai, The Garden Isle

We’ve been to Kauai, the Garden Isle, three different times, so this post includes everything we have done in those three visits.   Kauai is like a big circle, with one road running almost around the entire island.  The north/northwest part of the island, the beautiful Na Pali Coast, can’t be traveled by road.  In the middle of the island is Mount Wai’ale’ale, one of the wettest spots on earth, with about 450 inches of rainfall a year.  Many rivers flow from here, but there aren’t any paved roads in the middle part of the island.  In the north part of the island, the most popular areas are Princeville and Hanalei.  The road ends about 7 miles past Hanalei.  On the east side of the island is the town of Wailua and the Coconut Coast.  There’s lodging, shopping, and dining here.  In the south part of the island are Lihue, Koloa, and Poipu.  These areas are spread out, but there’s dining and shopping here, plus lodging in Lihue and Poipu.  The west part of the island has the historic town of Hanapepe, plus Koke’e and Waimea Canyon State Parks.  The road ends a few miles past the town of Waimea.

Where to Stay in Kauai

We’ve stayed at theMarriott Kauai Beach Club in Lihue and Marriott Waiohai Beach Club in Poipu, but we definitely prefer the Poipu property.  There are many other lodging options in Poipu and a handful in Lihue.  The beach area in Poipu has beautiful and calm waters, perfect for swimming or snorkeling.  There are a few reefs that create small waves that the surfers enjoy too.   We’ve also spent a few nights at the Westin Princeville Ocean Resort Villas, which is a very nice property but there isn’t a beach since it is upon a cliff.  The closest beach is the one in Hanalei.  The Coconut Coast area has lodging, although we haven’t stayed in this location.

What We Did 0n Kauai

Na Pali Coast Catamaran Tour - Captain Andy’s has yachts that take passengers to the beautiful Na Pali Coast.    A full-day cruise with lunch and drinks provided.  The seas were rough, so if going in the winter and you tend to get motion sickness, bring some Bonine or ginger candy to have with you.  We saw groups of spinner dolphins playing in the wake of the boat and swimming alongside us on the way to the Na Pali coast.  We made a  stop to do some snorkeling (good marine life here, but sadly, no dolphins while we were snorkeling), and then we continued to the Na Pali coast. 

The crew shared some stories and Hawaiian legends about this part of the island.  It was cloudy and raining when we got to the Na Pali Coast area and not the amazing view with all the colors that you see on so many Hawaiian marketing pieces.  This tour is probably best done during the dry season, but it was still worth doing during the winter.  On our most recent visit, we wanted to do this tour again, however, there was a storm and Captain Andy’s had to cancel our outing.  Unfortunately, it didn’t work to reschedule it because we were leaving the island soon.

Kipu Ranch ATV Tour - We did the ATV tour with Kipu Ranch Adventures two different times.  The tours were slightly different, with a couple of changes made due to COVID.  Kipu Ranch Adventures does offer a couple of different tours, so pick whatever sounds the most fun to you.  Our tour guides were Owen and David on our most recent tour, they were fantastic!  Owen was the lead guide and he was a great storyteller. 

We made different stops during the tour, where we learned about the history of the ranch, how it was given to the Rice family by a Hawaiian princess 150 years ago and is still in the Rice family today.  Plus, we saw some spots and heard stories from when Jurassic Park, Indiana Jones and the Raiders of the Lost Ark, The Descendants, Six Days Seven Nights, and other movies were filmed on the ranch.  Pre-covid the tour took us to the rope that Indiana Jones swang from when being chased by the Hovitos and the river where he and Doc tried to escape by floatplane at the beginning of Raiders of the Lost Ark.  (Post-covid, the tour skipped this due to a COVID tour audit that didn’t allow for people to touch and/or swing from the rope).  Depending on how wet the area is, you can splash through mud puddles and get real muddy, and other areas that see more sun are very dusty.  The tour ends with a climb to a peak where you have amazing views of Kipu Kai which is also where more movie scenes were shot. 

Hawaiian Green Sea Turtles - The turtles often leave the water around sunset each night and sleep on Brennecke’s Beach.  On each stay in Poipu, we rose before sunrise to make the short walk to Brennecke’s Beach to see the turtles wake up, slowly crawl through the sand and enter the water. 

Hawaiian Monk Seals, which are endangered, also use this and other beaches on the Southside of Kauai, as a place to rest in the sun after they have had a full meal.  One of these seals was swimming around the shore as if trying to get the turtles to wake up and join him for playtime in the water.  If you happen to see either of these wonderful creatures in the water or on the sand, please keep in mind that you must keep a distance of at least 20 feet and do not touch them (there is a huge fine for doing so).  Usually, volunteers will come out and place boundaries around them with signs posted about the rules.

Maha’ulepu Heritage Trail to Punahoa Point - Park in the parking lot at Shipwreck Beach and make your way to the Maha’ulepu Heritage Trail.    This trail is fairly easy, about 3.7 miles round trip from Shipwreck Beach to Punahoa Point, and should take less than 2 hours.  Many great places to stop and take in the stunning views.  If you start early in the morning, you will see a beautiful sunrise.

Auli’i Luau - If this is your first time visiting Hawaii, make sure to attend a luau.  We loved this luau because the setting was along the oceanfront at the Sheraton Kauai Resort in Poipu Beach.  As the sun begins to set and you are enjoying your Mai Tai, the show will begin sharing the culture, foods, and stories of Old Hawaii.

Waimea Canyon and Koke’e State Parks - We have a separate post about this area. 

Hanalei, Hanalei Bay, and Hanalei Pier - Hanalei is a small town on the North Shore, just west of the Princeville resort area.  This town is a great place to do a little shopping and enjoy some local eats.  This town still has the true Hawaiian vibe in my opinion.  While in town you can also visit the beach (or spend the day) and check out the pier, so many beautiful views, and amazing sunsets.

Koloa Rum Tastings - This is a fun way to taste some of the Koloa Rums.  Stop by here anytime they are open for a free tasting.  The bartenders are entertaining!

Ocean Course at Hokuala - Played golf at the Ocean Course at Hokuala.  This Jack Nicklaus designed course was scenic and had a couple of holes that ran along the airport runway.  It was fun to see incoming jets approach the runway between golf shots.   Fun course with lots of challenging shots.

Poipu Bay Golf Course - Played golf at Poipu Bay twice.  This Robert Trent Jones Jr. designed course hosted the Grand Slam of Golf from 1994 to 2006.  So many great golfers played in this event, which Tiger Woods won 7 times.   Another fun course, with more challenging shots (for me, every course has challenging shots).

CHICKENS + ROOSTERS

Chickens, roosters, hens, and chicks are everywhere, from outside your window,  on the beaches, in parking lots, or high up in Waimea Canyon.  So the question is, where did they all come from?  Supposedly, the hurricanes of 1982 (Iwa) and 1992 (Iniki) destroyed domestic coops, releasing the chickens into the jungles. These domesticated birds then mated with the wild red junglefowl (brought to the islands by the Polynesians) resulting in the feral chickens we see today.

Other sites we saw on Kauai were the Kilauea Lighthouse, Opaeka’a Falls, Wailua River Valley lookout, Wailua Falls, and the Spouting Horn in Koloa.  

There are things that we haven't done yet, that we’d like to do if we visit Kauai again.  These include visiting Hideaway beach, the Queen's Bath, and the Happy Talk Lounge in Princeville; visiting the Bar Acuda in Hanalei, plus kayaking either the Hanalei River or the Wailua River; visiting Smith’s Tropical Paradise Botanical Gardens and taking the riverboat cruise to Fern Grotto.  There are also a bunch of hikes all around the island that we haven't done.  

Where We Ate 0n Kauai

Duke’s in Lihue - We’ve eaten at Duke’s on each of the islands we’ve visited (they don’t have a location on the Island of Hawaii).  Classic Hawaiian place with great food.  Don’t miss out on their Hula Pie!

Keoki’s Paradise in Poipu - Open-air dining that reflects the vibrant spirit and flavors of Kauai.

Smitty’s Smash Burger food truck in Lihue - Great burgers, most with a Hawaiian twist.

Kauai Island Brewery Company in Eleele - Good bar food and good brews (not to be confused with Kauai Brewery Company, which we didn’t visit) 

Tahiti Nui in Hanalei - A classic Hawaiian bar where a scene from the Descendants was filmed.  There’s usually live music here.  

Anyplace serving Loco Moco, but the place alongside the Sueoka General Store in Koloa has been Jason’s favorite.  Loco Moco is a contemporary Hawaiian cuisine that can be served in several ways.  The most common is a bed of white rice topped with a hamburger, fried egg, and brown gravy.

Rob’s Good Times Grill in Lihue  

Hamura Saimin in Lihue -  No-frills, counter-serve space for saimin (a classic Hawaiian noodle soup)

Cafe Portofino in Lihue - Italian food 

Noka Grill in Lihue - divey, but good burgers 

The Dolphin in Poipu - Delicious  seafood 

Koloa Pizza Kitchen and Bar in Koloa - Wood-fired pizza

Koloa Food Trucks - in a parking lot of a park in Koloa.  Good variety of options

Brennecke’s Beach Broiler in Koloa - Fresh seafood, next to the Marriott Waiohai Beach Club

Kenji Burger in Koloa- Asian Fusion - Their spin of the loco moco had too much of an Asian twist to it, so order anything but that dish. 

JoJo’s Shave Ice in Hanalei - This has been one of our favorite shave ice places.  Make sure to order your shave ice with macadamia nut ice cream on the bottom, it makes all the difference.  They also have locations in Waimea and Coconut Marketplace. 

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